• 19 Posts
  • 423 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 29th, 2023

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  • Building an audience over time is exactly how blogs, and publishing in general, work unless you start off with a lot of advertising or endorsements. For better or worse, there’s far more content than there is time for a large audience to read it all.

    This gives you three choices:

    • specialize and post in an existing community that’s aligned with that specialization. People will nearly always engage, especially if the content is good
    • specialize and start your own blog. You could even try seeding it by referring people to it from already existing specialized communities. People will know what to expect content wise and keep coming back if the subject you’re talking about is interesting to them and the content is good
    • don’t specialize and strike out on your own. If the content is good and you stick with it your audience will eventually grow. This will probably take more time because your audience will initially be looking for content that relates to what they’ve seen in the past, but what you’re really offering is your personality, writing style, world view, etc

    Personally, if I’m looking for engagement I choose the first option.




  • Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.

    Suggestions:

    Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions

    Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.

    Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?


  • If M doesn’t want to wear a sports bra because that brings back traumatic memories don’t force it on her. The way your post reads, it sounds like it was your idea to try it again - not her’s. Your wording makes it sound lik she wasn’t interested in doing it, but you tried talking her into it anyway. It shouldn’t be surprising that it didn’t end well.

    Is M seeing a therapist? That’s probably the best place to start if she’s not doing that already. Don’t suggest she go because dhe’s not wearing a sports bra anymore. Honestly, who cares about that. She needs to go to help work through her trauma. She might never dress provocativly again, but she should at least feel comfortable in her own head.















  • Aluminum’s expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let’s say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That’s in total, so the effect at the print head isn’t 0.35mm, but let’s say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That’s 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.


  • 2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.

    Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08

    I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).

    Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset

    Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.

    That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.