You don’t buy from TSMC, but from Intel. Also, AMD also uses TSMC, they didn’t have such problems recently.

Are they any close? Seems like they’ve been doing it for ages and they aren’t close.

Agree, it didn’t do anything to avoid the obstacle. A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is. Not saying it’s possible to avoid, but some reaction would be made.

Thanks. The mill is utter trash though, which I modded as much as I could (the pink part is a 3d printed funnel), the wheels are not grippy enough, the knurling isn’t deep enough and I end up having to push the grain with my fingers and it’s very tedious and slow. I spent an hour milling a 5 kg of grain. It wasn’t even finely ground. It’s the next thing I’ll upgrade, as soon as I find a good brand/model.

This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it’s either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn’t say it’s that it’s the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I’m printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that’s not important. I’ve had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I’m printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

You’re completely right, I forgot about that method. I’ve used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

True, I’ve seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn’t go over 60C and you’re good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don’t have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn’t work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won’t do much.

A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

As others have mentioned:

• Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
• Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
• Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it’s original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you’re printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it’s gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

Well, I’ve been a C/C++ dev for half of my career, I didn’t find Rust syntax ugly. Some things are better than others, but not a major departure from C/C++. ObjC is where ugly is at. And I even think swift is more ugly. In fact, I can’t find too many that are as close to C/C++ as Rust. As for logic… Well, I want to say you’ll get used to it, but for some things, it’s not true. Rust is a struggle. Whether it’s worth it, is your choice. I personally would take it over C++ any day.

In 2024? No, unless it’s a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I’d be buying today,I’d buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn’t find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it’s very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.

I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.

Have you tried zed? Written in rust, has many extensions. I gave it a try, I quite like it. It’s blazing fast. But I haven’t tried on an old machine.

You could use just a regular 5 min epoxy. I frequently use CA glue, but depending on your use case, it might be too brittle.

Did a top level comment for readability. Sorry for the delay.

Update: I bought a b-stock Nux Mighty Space and it’s been working great! Just what I needed. That being said, some things I’m using more than others. Things I use:

• USB interface as a speaker for my PC. Speakers in my monitor are just trash. This is way better. It’s not stereo HiFi, but I have dedicated speakers for that.

• Wireless dongle. So convenient and makes me play more than before. A bonus is you can also have a different guitar plugged inat the same time. Not super important, but still.

• App is decent and there’s an open source alternative, making sure the amp is supported for many years.

• it’s nice that it is just a basic Bluetooth speaker when you connect to it. Haven’t used it that much, but I can see it coming in handy every once in a while.

Things I haven’t used:

• Looper - not used to it that much

• drum loops - seem basic and kind of crappy

• tinkering - I’m fairly satisfied with the presets out of the box, so I haven’t found the need to tinker too much. Perhaps occasionally gain and eq.

Things that bother me a bit:

• All the presets are too bass-heavy. There’s a global eq that can be tweaked. This bothers me on so many audio devices lately. More bass is NOT always more better. I dialed it in, but cmon. I’m not 12. The guitar is never supposed to be that boomy.

That’s it, any questions, just shoot.

There’s variants and subvariants too. There’s fish glue, which is close to hide glue. There’s also waterproof versions of PVA glues. Not to mention PU glues and epoxies. Though, besides PVA and hide and fish, the rest are rarely used for guitars. But traditionally, only hide glue is acceptable. Not really rightfully so IMO, but it is what it is.

PVA is more commonly known as wood glue nowadays. But hide and PVA are both commonly used.

I don’t know where you got that, but the difference is marginal at best. The quantity of glue used is very small, if used correctly, in both cases. The amount of finish is at least an order of magnitude more and affects the sound dampening significantly more. And I don’t see companies stating how many layers they put on. Not to mention pore fillers and other stuff.