I’ve generally had good luck with hardware and things just worked under linux. But one day I upgraded a few machines on my network to 2.5G ethernet. Several already had the ports, but my little NUC NAS box didn’t, so I installed a 2.5G usb ethernet dongle. No matter what I did, I couldn’t get it to work. It would show up and NM would act like it was up and there were no errors or anything, but it just wouldn’t actually function.

Eventually, I found out that it has a built in USB data partition that contains the drivers for windows. The card was coming up as a usb disk first when the hardware was assigned and not a network card which it should have been.

I had to write a blacklist the usb modules first, which I had done before, but I had to also write a udev rule to automatically add the network card and driver on boot. It wasn’t that difficult to actually do, but I had just never had to do anything with udev rules before. Took me a good three days of troubleshooting to finally get everything to work correctly on boot.

ACTION=="add", ATTRS{idVendor}=="20f4", ATTRS{idProduct}=="e02c", RUN+="/sbin/modprobe r8152" RUN+="/bin/sh -c 'echo 20f4 e02c > /sys/bus/usb/drivers/r8152/new_id'"

Not on my Galaxy S23+ from Google Fi

I got so tired of them that I actually answered one a few weeks ago. I was shocked that an actual person answered.

I asked to be taken off and she was very nice and they actually did it.

Haven’t received one since.

You can see the awful, misaligned panel gaps in those photos.

Nice find!

I’d be curious to see RTINGS do a review of the panel on it.

I thought I was 43 for probably close to a year, and even told everyone that asked I was until I had to get my own health insurance and found out I was actually 44.

Except if you care about anything having to do with picture quality, brightness, contrast ratio or features such as HDR etc, then it’s going to be a really shitty TV. They’re made for the menus at McDonald’s, not a device for modern media.

If you disable the Ethernet/WiFI then you can create a local account, but you have to do a small.extra step…

press SHIFT+F10 keys to open Command Prompt.

Run the following: OOBE\BYPASSNRO

After this, setup will reboot the computer and you’ll get a new option I don’t have Internet or Continue with limited setup to skip the Internet requirement and you can create a local account as well.

Sync for Android can filter instances

Lol, what? There is no malware in classic shell, or start11 or explorer patcher. Wtf are you talking about?

Don’t use Fusion, but in most 3d applications that would typically be a Boolean operation to subtract the fins from the circle part.

This is only the 3764th post this week…

Just found out it won’t work on Google Fi :(

I can’t help you with the keyboard recommendations, but I just want to say that thing is hilarious. I kinda want to buy one just for shits and giggles when I whip it out at the bar.

It’s certainly a bright ass display.

When I’m indoors, pretty much always, I have the brightness set to where the little sun icon is on the left side of the bar.

I can’t say I have any issues outside though, it kicks into the super bright outdoor mode when it’s sunny and everything is great, even in direct sun.

It learns your settings based on the light sensor, so it will eventually lower it down to really dim indoors if you keep changing it.

Sometimes you can just tell something sucks without even using it… All you need to know comes from looking at the fonts and button designs. What car is this?

Except you still pay for Prime so it doesn’t really matter if your delete the app…

Never had to remove a single phone I’ve ever owned from the case to wirelessly charge.

I still use Feedly daily!

I use it when I need it to speed up python scripting for CG applications, but I don’t need it on a constant basis. It could be weeks or more between when I’ll dig into it.