Just picked up an APC 48u server rack. There were no pictures of it in the post and I did not notice until I got it home and set up, that the rack rails have threaded holes instead of square cage nut holes. I can’t seem to determine the thread size and pitch, and have a thread gauge coming. Until then, does anyone know anything about this? The people I grabbed it from had used self tapping machine screws and drove them in with an impact wrench. Is this what APC had intended, or is there some $300 proprietary screw I have to buy from them?
I learned this the hard way, there is a difference between a “data rack”, which is the one with cage screws, and a “network rack”, which comes with the threaded machine screws. I believe switches have standardized screws
While I can’t speak for your rack in particular, most pre threaded racks are either 10-32 or 10-24 screws.
You can buy them easily on Amazon.
I work in television, and in our equipment room we have 50 racks that are pre threaded. And we use these: [Amazon link](Penn Elcom S1032/HP/WA/100 High Point Rack Screws with Washers - Set of 100 https://a.co/d/g13kPzw)
This is what I thought too, but both #10 threaded bolts I have are too small, one will thread, the 24 ones I believe, but you can wiggle them, enough to wiggle them out with out turning them.
They’re 12-24, we use these at work.
#12-24 are way to big, can’t even get them to catch the first thread.
I know you said this is wrong, but my APC racks that look just like that also use 12-24 pilot point screws. They do have a little cutting notch that clears out the paint when you screw them in though
This is honestly the answer I was looking for. Someone who has this in service. Thank you so much. I’ve seen these bolts on APCs website, I was thinking it was for cutting the powder coat but wanted to make sure. Thank you again!
12-24 from a telco guy, buy a 12-24 tap to help take the paint off
Heading to the depot as we speak. Thank you
No idea on the screw question… but the labels are off by one screw spacing. The holes that are “close” are where the U labels should change.
